You can handle this without a chemistry lab or calling a repairman. All you need to know are the four areas that require attention: the drum, the rubber seal, the detergent dispenser, and the drain filter. Regular cleaning eliminates odors, maintains hygiene, and extends the life of your machine.
The drum may look clean, but a buildup of detergent residue and dirt accumulates on the walls and in the tank behind it.
Run a hot wash cycle without any laundry. Start the empty machine at the highest temperature setting—usually 60–90 °C—and add a special washing machine cleaner. Place it in the drum or the detergent tray, depending on the instructions on the package.
Many people recommend citric acid, and it does work on limescale. But if you use it every month, it can damage the rubber seals. Vinegar is even more aggressive in this regard. It’s best to reserve home remedies for emergencies and check the instructions before use: the manufacturer specifies what is and isn’t allowed. Use only one product at a time.
Once every 1–3 months. If you do laundry every day for a large family, aim for about once a month. If your machine has a built-in drum self-cleaning cycle, that’s often sufficient: it’s designed for this purpose and is better suited to your specific model.
The rubber seal around the door is a favorite spot for mold. Water, hair, lint, small items from pockets, and detergent residue get trapped underneath it. It’s worth checking it at least once a month: the first signs of trouble are immediately visible. These include dark spots, a slimy film, or a sour smell coming directly from the door.
The whole process takes about ten minutes. Carefully pull back the seal and remove any accumulated debris. Wipe the rubber seal with a soft cloth and a suitable cleaner that won’t damage the material. Rinse off any residue with a clean, damp cloth and wipe the seal dry. A wet rubber seal after cleaning invites mold to return.
It’s a good idea to wipe down the seal after every wash, and to give it a thorough cleaning as needed. If the mold has set in deeply and the odor persists even after cleaning, the problem lies with the seal itself. It’s easier to replace it than to keep trying to fix it.
The detergent and fabric softener dispenser is the stickiest spot in the machine. Detergent and fabric softener leave thick residue, which combines with limescale, and mold starts to grow in the corners. You should clean it about every 5–6 washes or as soon as you notice dirt.
The tray usually comes out by pressing the latch and pulling it toward you. If you’re not sure where the latch is, check the manual so you don’t break anything. Soak the tray in warm water with a suitable detergent, and scrub hard-to-reach corners with an old toothbrush.
Don’t forget about the recess where the tray sits. Mold tends to grow there too, and if left untreated, the tray will get dirty again. Wipe down the recess with a brush or cloth and let everything dry. Avoid using toilet bowl cleaners: they’re harsh, and if the manufacturer doesn’t approve them for these surfaces, the plastic could be damaged.
The drain filter catches everything that falls out of your pockets: hair, lint, buttons, coins, and paper clips. If it’s clogged, the water won’t drain properly, and a stagnant puddle will form in the machine, accompanied by a corresponding odor. The filter is usually located at the bottom, behind a small decorative panel, but it’s best to check the exact location in the manual for your specific model.
Unplug the machine from the power source. Have a shallow container ready—such as a baking sheet—and a towel: water will spill out. If you washed at a high temperature, wait for the machine to cool down. Do not unscrew the filter abruptly, as hot water may still be inside.
Unscrew the filter gradually so that the water drains out slowly. If the machine has a small emergency drain hose, use it. Remove the filter, clean out any debris, and rinse it under running water. Put it back in place, tighten it all the way, and run a short cycle to check for leaks.
About once every 2–3 months, unless the manufacturer recommends a different interval.
The odor almost always has one of four causes: constant moisture, a dirty seal, detergent residue, or a clogged filter. To find the source, check each one in turn: first the seal, then the tray, then the filter. Often, just one component is to blame.
Cleaning the drum alone may not be enough, because the drum is usually not the problem. If the odor persists after all these steps, check the drain hose and the sewer line: sometimes the odor comes from there. If nothing helps, call a home appliance repair technician. A professional diagnosis is faster than searching for the cause blindly.
It’s easier to prevent dirt from building up than to clean it off. After washing, leave the door and detergent dispenser slightly open if it’s safe to do so—for example, when there are no small children or pets nearby. Wipe down the door seal and remove any water from the crevices.
Don’t exceed the recommended amounts of detergent and fabric softener: excess chemicals don’t clean any better—they just build up inside the machine. Don’t overuse short, low-temperature cycles if they aren’t suitable for the type of laundry or the manufacturer’s recommendations. Run the drum cleaning cycle once every 1–3 months. And don’t leave wet laundry in the machine for too long: overnight, it becomes a source of odors.
The easiest option is to use a special washing machine cleaner. It’s formulated specifically for this appliance and is usually gentler than household products. Citric acid helps remove limescale, but frequent use can damage the machine’s parts. Baking soda works well for light stains and odors, but it’s no substitute for a thorough cleaning of all components. If you’re choosing a mold remover, check the material of the rubber parts: not everything that removes mold is safe for rubber. And be sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, chlorine-based products, and other chemicals must not be mixed together. Such mixtures can release dangerous gases.
By the way, if the machine has completely broken down and cleaning doesn’t help, it might be time to buy a new washing machine—or at least a good used one.
After each wash cycle, air out the machine and wipe moisture from the door seal. Every 5–6 wash cycles, check the drain tray and clean it as needed. Once a month, inspect the door seal and clean any dirty areas. Run a drum cleaning cycle and check the drain filter once every 1–3 months.
These intervals are approximate. They depend on the model, how often you do laundry, and water hardness: the harder the water, the faster limescale builds up.
You don’t need harsh chemicals every time to keep your machine clean. It’s enough to keep an eye on the drum, the seal, the detergent dispenser, and the filter. The key is to remove moisture, not exceed the recommended detergent amount, and remember to check the filter. Check the manufacturer’s instructions from time to time, and your machine will last longer and wash more effectively.
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