This article provides a detailed breakdown of what you should check in your car before the fall and winter season: from tires and the battery to the heater and your winter kit in the trunk.
Cold weather puts a strain on several of your car’s systems at once. Low temperatures reduce the battery’s efficiency and thicken the engine oil, making it harder to start the engine in cold weather. Rain, snow, and black ice place greater demands on the braking system and tire traction, while shorter daylight hours increase the load on the lighting system and require extra attention to visibility.
Minor issues that go unnoticed in the summer often turn into serious problems in the winter. A slightly leaking battery, worn brake pads, or a cracked coolant hose may easily last through the warmer months, but when the first severe frosts hit, they can let you down at the worst possible moment—for example, in the middle of the road or in freezing weather, when the car simply won’t start.
Pre-season maintenance is usually significantly cheaper than emergency repairs in the middle of winter—not to mention the time wasted on a tow truck, searching for an open repair shop, or waiting in line while all the other drivers suddenly remember the same thing at the first major cold snap. An early check also reduces the risk of getting stranded on the road in dangerous winter conditions.
According to Lithuanian traffic regulations, winter tires are mandatory from November 10 through March 31—during this period, driving a vehicle with summer tires is prohibited. Violations are subject to a fine of 50 to 100 euros, and if the tires are found to be noncompliant, the inspection authority has the right to revoke the vehicle’s roadworthiness certificate. In practice, many drivers switch to winter tires even before the official date—as soon as the average daily temperature consistently drops below +7°C, since it is at this temperature that the rubber compound of summer tires begins to lose its elasticity and traction.
Studded winter tires are permitted from November 1 through April 10—after this date, driving with studded tires is prohibited, even if the mandatory winter tire period is still technically in effect.
The minimum permissible tread depth for winter tires in Lithuania is 3 mm—this is significantly stricter than the requirement for summer tires, for which the minimum is 1.6 mm. You can check the tread depth using a special wear indicator on the tire itself or an inexpensive measuring tool—if the tread is approaching the minimum mark, it’s best to replace the tires before the season begins, rather than waiting until the tread depth finally falls below the minimum.
In addition to the tread, you should check the tire pressure and the overall condition of the tires—looking for cracks, cuts, or sidewall deformations. As the air temperature drops, tire pressure naturally decreases, so it’s important to check and adjust it as the weather gets colder, rather than just once before the season begins.
The spare tire or tire repair kit is often neglected for months, and sometimes even years. Before the season begins, make sure the spare tire is inflated to the correct pressure and that the tire repair kit is complete and not expired—in winter, the likelihood of a puncture or tire damage on uneven, icy roads is higher than in summer.
When choosing winter tires, look for the 3PMSF (the Alpine snowflake symbol)—it confirms that the tire has been tested and meets current requirements for winter traction, unlike the older M+S marking, which does not guarantee the same level of performance on snow and ice. You should also decide between studded and non-studded tires: studs are more effective on ice and packed snow, but they’re noisier, increase fuel consumption, and aren’t suitable for spirited driving on dry pavement, whereas high-quality non-studded tires—especially Scandinavian-style ones—are more versatile for the mixed road conditions of a Lithuanian winter.
Before the cold season begins, it’s a good idea to check the battery’s charge level and overall condition—at most service stations, this check takes just a few minutes and helps identify a battery that’s nearing the end of its service life. External signs of wear—corrosion on the terminals, a swollen case, or noticeably slower engine starts in the morning—are a signal that you shouldn’t put off replacing the battery.
In severe cold, the chemical processes inside the battery slow down, causing its actual capacity and ability to deliver starting current to decrease significantly compared to summer conditions. A battery that handled engine starts perfectly all summer long may no longer be powerful enough in sub-zero temperatures, especially if it’s a few years old.
In addition to the battery itself, it’s important to ensure that the alternator—which recharges the battery while the car is running—and the starter—which directly starts the engine—are in good working order. A malfunction in either of these components significantly increases the risk of the car simply failing to start on a frosty morning, even if the battery itself is in good condition.
Before the season begins, it’s a good idea to check that all lighting components are working properly—low- and high-beam headlights, brake lights, turn signals, and parking lights. With shorter daylight hours and frequent precipitation, proper lighting directly affects not only your own visibility on the road but also how visible your car is to other road users.
As daylight hours shorten, a significant portion of your drives will take place during twilight or in the dark, so it’s important to make sure your headlights are properly adjusted in advance—improperly adjusted headlights can blind oncoming drivers or, conversely, fail to adequately illuminate the road ahead. If necessary, have a service center specialist adjust your headlights.
Before the cold season begins, check the condition and level of your engine oil, and replace it as needed according to the maintenance schedule. For regions with cold winters, oil with a lower winter viscosity is often recommended, as it ensures easier cold starts at low temperatures.
The coolant must be suitable for the temperature range of the upcoming winter—insufficient antifreeze concentration can cause the coolant in the cooling system to freeze during severe cold, which can result in serious engine damage. It’s best to check the coolant level and condition in advance, rather than waiting for the first severe frosts.
Summer windshield washer fluid freezes even at slightly sub-zero temperatures, which not only prevents you from cleaning your windshield while driving but can also damage the washer system if the fluid freezes in the reservoir or hoses. Switching to winter fluid with the appropriate freeze resistance is a simple but essential part of preparing for the season.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and can negatively affect braking performance in a critical situation. Checking the condition of the brake fluid is usually part of routine maintenance, but before the winter season, it’s worth checking when it was last changed.
Different types of coolant and brake fluid may be chemically incompatible with each other—mixing them can damage the system or reduce the fluid’s effectiveness. Before topping off any fluid, make sure it matches the type already used in the car, or replace the fluid entirely rather than mixing different formulations.
The braking system is one of the most critical components for safety in winter, when stopping distances are already longer due to slippery road surfaces. Before the season begins, check the thickness of the brake pads and the condition of the rotors—wear, uneven wear, or cracks require immediate replacement, not postponement until the next scheduled maintenance.
Worn shock absorbers reduce the wheel’s contact with the road, which is especially dangerous on slippery or uneven winter roads. Signs of wear—excessive body roll after hitting a bump, increased stopping distance, or uneven tire wear—should be checked before the start of the season when driving conditions are more hazardous.
Play in the steering, unusual noises, or difficulty turning the steering wheel are signs that should be checked by a professional before the winter season. Proper steering is especially important on slippery roads, where the car’s precise response to the driver’s actions plays a crucial role in preventing skids.
The unevenness of winter roads—ruts, black ice, and snow drifts—places additional strain on the suspension and makes existing problems, which are barely noticeable in the summer, much more pronounced. A car with worn-out suspension loses control on winter roads noticeably faster than on smooth summer asphalt.
Worn-out windshield wipers leave streaks and fail to clear the glass of fall slush and wet snow, which seriously reduces visibility on the road. Before the season begins, check the condition of the wiper blades and replace them with new ones if necessary—preferably winter-type blades with a reinforced design that resists icing.
Even a small chip on the windshield tends to develop into a crack as the cold weather sets in—temperature fluctuations between the warm interior and the freezing air outside create additional stress on the glass. Chips and small cracks should be repaired before the season begins, while repairs are still possible without having to replace the entire windshield.
It’s a good idea to check in advance that the rear window defroster is working and, if your vehicle is equipped with them, the windshield defroster or the area under the windshield wipers — these features make it much easier to deal with ice buildup in the morning and improve safety in the first few minutes after starting the engine in freezing weather.
The sudden temperature difference between hot water and a frozen windshield creates thermal stress that can cause a crack or even shatter the entire windshield. To remove ice, use an ice scraper, a special de-icing spray, or wait for the car to warm up from the inside—but do not use hot water.
Damaged paintwork—chips and scratches down to the metal—is particularly vulnerable in winter, when road de-icing chemicals accelerate corrosion in areas where the protective paint layer is compromised. Minor damage should be touched up or treated with a protective coating before the season begins.
It’s a good idea to inspect the body for any signs of corrosion, especially in areas that are out of sight—wheel wells, the underside of the doors, and the underbody. Applying an anti-corrosion treatment in a timely manner before the winter season—when road de-icing chemicals are heavily used—significantly extends the body’s service life.
Rubber door seals lose their elasticity over time and can freeze to the body in severe cold. Treating the seals with a special silicone compound before winter begins reduces the risk of the doors freezing shut and extends the service life of the seals themselves.
Treating car locks with a special anti-freeze agent is an inexpensive yet effective way to prevent the frustrating situation where the key simply won’t turn in a frozen lock. It’s also a good idea to keep a small de-icing spray in the car in case door handles or locks suddenly freeze over.
Before the season begins, make sure the heater effectively warms the interior and isn’t just blowing cold air. Weak or uneven heating may indicate problems with the cooling system, the thermostat, or a clogged heater core—these issues should be diagnosed before the real cold sets in.
A dirty cabin air filter not only reduces the efficiency of the heating and ventilation systems but also contributes to the windows fogging up from the inside—a particularly unpleasant problem during the cold season, when visibility is already reduced. Replacing the cabin air filter before winter is an inexpensive but useful preventive measure.
Air conditioning in winter is used not for cooling, but for dehumidifying the air—running the air conditioner along with the heater effectively prevents the windows from fogging up from the inside, which is especially important in damp, rainy, or snowy weather. Regular use of the air conditioner year-round also extends the life of its compressor.
If your car is equipped with heated seats and side mirrors, it’s worth checking that they’re working properly in advance—these features not only enhance comfort, but the heated mirrors also significantly improve visibility during snowfall or freezing rain, when the mirrors quickly become covered with ice.
A basic but essential part of your winter kit is an ice scraper and a snow brush. It’s best to keep them inside the passenger compartment rather than in the trunk, which can become blocked by snow or ice on the lock during the winter.
Jump start cables—an inexpensive yet lifesaving tool in case your battery dies on a freezing morning. An alternative, more convenient option is a compact jump starter, which allows you to start your car on your own, without help from another driver.
A tow rope comes in handy not only in the event of a serious breakdown, but also when your car is stuck in the snow or on a slippery incline and needs help from another vehicle to get moving.
Warm gloves for working on the car in the cold—from installing snow chains to changing a tire—and a flashlight for situations where a breakdown occurs after dark are simple items that are often forgotten until they’re actually needed.
A first-aid kit and a warning triangle are required by law in most cases, but in winter it’s especially important to make sure they’re actually in the car and weren’t accidentally left at home after your last check.
For long winter trips, it’s a good idea to bring a blanket or warm clothing in case you have to wait a long time for help in cold weather, a supply of water, and—if you plan to drive on less-traveled roads—a fully charged phone with a spare charger.
Diesel fuel can thicken slightly in severe cold if summer fuel—which is not designed for low temperatures—is used; this can make it difficult or impossible to start the engine. As cold weather sets in, it’s important to switch to winter diesel fuel, which remains fluid at low temperatures.
In diesel engines, glow plugs are responsible for preheating the combustion chamber before starting in cold weather. Worn or faulty glow plugs significantly complicate cold starts of a diesel engine—it’s worth checking them in advance, especially if the engine has started to feel less reliable than before.
The fuel filter in a diesel vehicle should be checked for clogs—a clogged filter, combined with thickened fuel at low temperatures, can completely block the fuel supply to the engine. For gasoline-powered cars, it’s also a good idea to make sure the fuel system is in good working order and free of leaks before the season begins.
Problems starting a diesel engine due to thickened fuel or faulty glow plugs almost always occur suddenly, on the most inconvenient frosty morning — it’s much wiser to perform preventive maintenance in advance, before temperatures drop to critical levels.
The drive battery of an electric or hybrid vehicle, like a conventional battery, loses some of its efficiency at low temperatures. Before the winter season, make sure the battery is in good working order and that its thermal management system is functioning properly—the stability of your range in cold weather depends directly on this.
Electric vehicle owners should keep in mind that the actual range in winter decreases significantly compared to summer figures — this is influenced by both reduced battery efficiency at low temperatures and the additional energy consumption required to heat the cabin. When planning long trips in the winter, it’s wise to allow for a larger charge reserve than in the summer.
The charging speed of an electric vehicle can also slow down in cold temperatures, especially at fast-charging stations, if the battery has not been preheated. Many modern electric vehicles have a feature that preheats the battery before charging or a drive—it’s worth familiarizing yourself with this feature in your specific model in advance, if it’s available.
The feature that preheats the cabin and battery while the car is still connected to a charger — is a convenient option for owners of electric and hybrid vehicles: it allows you to start your trip with a warm cabin and a more efficient battery, without using up the charge stored for the trip itself to warm up the car.
Replace your summer tires with winter tires by November 10, check the tread depth (at least 3 mm) and tire pressure on all four tires, as well as the condition of the spare tire or tire repair kit.
Check the battery charge level and overall condition, as well as the proper functioning of the alternator and starter.
Check and, if necessary, replace the engine oil, coolant, winter windshield washer fluid, and brake fluid.
Check the thickness of the brake pads, the condition of the brake rotors, and the overall performance of the braking system.
Make sure all headlights, brake lights, and turn signals are working properly; adjust the headlight aim if necessary.
Replace worn windshield wipers, repair chips in the windshield, and check the rear window defroster and, if equipped, the windshield defroster.
Check that the heater is working properly, replace the cabin air filter, and make sure the seat and mirror heaters are working, if equipped.
Gather an ice scraper, a snow brush, jumper cables or a jump starter, a tow rope, gloves, a flashlight, a first-aid kit, and a warning triangle.
Proper seasonal car preparation takes one or two days but significantly reduces the risk of unpleasant surprises in the middle of winter—from a dead battery to a dangerous stopping distance on icy roads. If the inspection reveals that it’s time to replace your tires or battery, or to add a winter kit to your trunk, you can often find great deals on automotive products on our classifieds board—it’s also a convenient place to post an ad if, for example, you no longer need your old set of summer tires or a spare battery.
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