Key directions of the season:
- Bold deconstruction and multi-layering
- Upcycling, reinterpreting archives, sustainable production
- Huge, dramatic silhouettes: oversized shoulders, cocoon coats, voluminous shapes
- Gender fluidity and maximally inclusive castings
- Eclecticism: from 90s and 2000s subcultures to futurism, metallics, and silver
- Contrasting textures, patchwork, deliberate “carelessness”
Especially memorable moments:
- Burberry under Daniel Lee — a festival-like finale in Kensington Gardens featuring Elton John, Raye, Central Cee, Jourdan Dunn, and others; British classics mixed with youthful rebellion and street energy.
- Simone Rocha — gothic romance, torn fabrics, pastels and flowers set in a harsh frame.
- Erdem and Roksanda — anniversary collections, refined, intellectual femininity.
- New names and breakthroughs: Selasi (Ronan McKenzie), Oscar Ouyang, Josh Ewusie, Talia Byre, Karoline Vitto, the return of Joseph, Conner Ives, Chopova Lowena, Aaron Esh, Dilara Findikoglu.
- Central Saint Martins and Fashion East graduate shows — as always, the most radical and most talked-about.
London still speaks the loudest of all: fashion is, first and foremost, an idea, a protest, and a search for identity.
Milan Fashion Week: Luxury, Structure, Reinterpreting Heritage
This season Milan reaffirmed its role as the city that does not experiment for the sake of experimentation, but asserts the value of craftsmanship, expensive materials, and confident elegance. The season unfolded against a backdrop of major transitions: departures of creative directors, milestone anniversaries for brands, and the search for a new balance between creativity and commerce.
Main directions for Autumn/Winter 2025/2026:
- Refined “lived-in” minimalism and lived-in luxury
- Leather, fur, shearling, rich textures
- Deep, warm palette: mocha mousse, cocoa, burgundy, moss green, plum, graphite, dusty tones, accents of sangria and arctic blue
- Nostalgia for the 70s and 90s in a contemporary reading: bodysuits, A-line skirts, velvet, layering
- Oversized outerwear, thigh-high boots, large bags
- Blend of nonna-core, boho, and sharp minimalism
The strongest impressions came from:
- Prada — the defining collection of the season: glamorous yet slightly “dirty” femininity, raw elegance, huge critical resonance.
- Fendi — 100th anniversary of the brand: luxurious nostalgia, furs, lace, ladylike executed at the highest level of luxury, vivid nonna-core.
- Gucci — transitional show following Sabato De Sarno’s departure: homage to 60s–70s archives, Florentine roots, and soft sensuality.
- DSquared2 — explosive energy, Y2K + western + rock-n-roll (finale with nods to KISS, a performance by Doechii, and Naomi Campbell’s walk).
- Max Mara — impeccable coats and sophisticated colour work.
- Emporio Armani, Alberta Ferretti, Jil Sander — continuation of the line of calm, confident elegance.
Milan responded to the instability of the times with stability, mastery, and love for its heritage.
Contrast and Balance
London challenges, experiments, uncovers new names, and raises questions about identity, society, and the future. Milan provides answers — confident, perfectly tailored, rooted in the traditions of Italian style and luxury.
Together they create the necessary equilibrium: radical creativity versus sustainable business, youthful rebellion versus honed craftsmanship, the search for the new versus love for the time-tested.
The Autumn/Winter 2025/2026 collections in London and Milan once again reminded us: fashion long ago ceased to be just clothing. It is a mirror of the era — with all its fears, hopes, and contradictions. London continues to ask uncomfortable questions, Milan offers beautiful and assured answers. And it is precisely in this dialogue that the face of contemporary fashion for the coming years is born.
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